George F. Campbell

The neophyte shipmodeller`s jackstay


Making the spars

For the spars use a straight and fine'grained wood such as birch. If the dowel diameter is correct, it is only a matter of producing a taper at both ends by means of a small plane. However, if the dowel diameter must be reduced or you are working with special woods from a square section, a yard may be accurately shaped as follows. Fig. 59:

Plane or saw the wood stock to four even sides (square). On the same four surfaces work in the taper at each end to the end diameter previously drawn. You will note that unequal shaving will show up in uneven edges. Plane the edges producing an eight'sided piece. With fine shaving round off the spar throughout or leave an 8-sided portion in the middle as required.

With the spar formed, drill the necessary holes, such as tor eyes, jackstay eyes, topsail sheet sheaves, etc. The important thing is to do tnis detail before mounting the yard on the mast.

An alternative and better way, if you have a lathe, is to produce bands from brass or solid stock, drilling the bands to take small eyebolts (No. 75 drill is suitable for the common small pins). For the eyebolts, snip off the heads of small pins and form eyes with round nose pliers. Or, simply use eyebolts available from model fittings suppliers. Insert the shanks in the holes, apply a touch of solder and trim off inside the band. Fig. 60B.

Less finicky workers can make the bands of strips of black photographic paper glued to the yard. Careful work will give creditable results. The eyes can be inserted in holes (No. 75 drill) through the paper and yard. An eye formed in the other end of the eye shank will hold the eyes in place. However, a softer wire is recommended in this case.

Simplest of all is to knot the lines to the yard keeping them small and neat, or alternatively, tie a small loop in the thread and then make a few tight turns around the yard over a smear of glue and stiffen up the loop with glue or dope. Careful painting will even out the strands somewhat to look like a smooth band. Fig. 60C. Of course, if your model is pre-1800 no iron bands are necessary and plain thread bands are in order.

Wire can be used for much of the iron work. An ANNEALED IRON WIRE shapes easily and is stronger than brass. For size of wire keep in mind the scale of your model. Needle'nose pliers are good for forming eyes, flat-jaw pliers for forming sharp bends. Several illustrations of wire formings usable on a model are shown in Fig. 61.

Great fun: 61A—Bobstay Iron. 61B—Iron Truss. 61C—lower deadeye strap and chain links. 61D— lower deadeye strap and futtock shroud. 61E—Parral Strap. 61F—Strap and eye for block. 61G— Shackle. 6lH—Eyebolt