George F. Campbell

The neophyte shipmodeller`s jackstay


Decks

Cut the mast holes thru the decking, then give the decks a thin coat of varnish or lacquer, the purpose being to prevent any deep soiling of the wood while the model is worked upon. Do not allow the deck to have a shiny finish. If so, dull it with fine sand paper. The plank lines may be emphasised by rubbing on an oil base color (black) then scraping off excess, but you will probably find that the varnish which fills the lines gives sufficient definition. On some models plank lines are glaringly over-done.

Before we turn to woodworking on the outer parts of the hull, make up a simple cradle to hold it safely. Cut the cradle pieces to fit the hull (use the section lines as guide), line them with soft cloth and fix them on a base board with screws or nails. (Fig. 16.)

Rails

(or Caprails)

Apply these to the top edge of bulwarks as called for. Note that the caprail lapped slightly over the outside of the planking. Fig. 14 and inward over the timberheads, and ceiling if such was used. CEILING was planking laid over the inner side of the frames and timberheads. Warships generally were ceiled to arrest smaller projectiles, giving the typically thicker bulwarks and wider rails. Again, the sharp curves at the bow and stern may call for piecing of the rails. When made over'wide, they can be shaved to shape without trouble. Just be cautious in addressing the grain.

Sometimes a

Sprayrail

was mounted atop the caprail at the bow. Fig. 17.


Channels

(originally "chain wales") were timbers placed along the side so as to lead the shrouds clear of the upper sides of the ship and to distribute the pressures on the ships sides. The CHAINPLATES (chains) in earlier days were of short loops of iron, but toward mid 19th c. they tended to become iron bars or long loops (Fig. 18).
Mark on the sides the position of the channel. Fit the wood material to the curve of the side, shaving its bearing surface until the channel lies level with the beam of the ship. Now cut the notches, thru which the chainplates will pass. On large ships a batten or capping strip of wood or iron was laid over this edge, holding the chainplates in the notches, Fig 18. To better hold the channels, drill them (about No.75 drill) so a pin may be thrust thru. Pin and glue in place. On the later and larger sail ships, double channels were common. Fig. 19.